Lurker > IdiotMachine

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TopicAnyone ever buy a plane before?
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 4:12:53 PM
#4
AlephZero posted...
That's sketchy.
He wants my mechanic to come to the hanger, but I want to fly the plane to my mechanic's hanger; the two airports are about 40 miles away from each other.

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TopicAnyone ever buy a plane before?
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 4:10:06 PM
#1
1976 Cessna Cardinal, with upgraded digital avionics and IFR certified. I'm talking with this guy to buy a used plane; we met and I already test flew it. I want to bring it to a mechanic to get this inspected, but that's where I'm stuck right now; guy doesn't want me to bring it to my own mechanic, but rather he's showing me his mechanic's report. I want to walk, but the plane's pretty damn good (only $36k with a $5k escrow fund included).

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TopicTrump seems to be getting more frustrated lately.
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 3:30:34 PM
#3
monkmith posted...
that's what happens when even your safe space, in trumps case fox news, starts to abandon him...
I thought he's been pushing for ONN now.

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TopicGreta will be on CNN tomorrow to talk about corona
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 3:19:36 PM
#4
TopicThat FFVII magazine ad knocking cartridge developers
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 1:05:12 PM
#3
This is probably an idea from Sony, and not from Square/FF.

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TopicTrying to locate an older everything is terrible video
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 12:53:02 PM
#2
TopicTwo men assault Target security guard over face mask rule in LA
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 12:26:45 PM
#45
What's the point of being a security guard if you cannot even defend yourself in a 3-vs-2 scenario?

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TopicRed Lobster trends on Twitter because Karen fought with staff
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 11:01:29 AM
#4
Veggeta X posted...
Remember, guys. Karen isn't a race or gender. It's a type of person. For example, anyone can be a Debbie Downer.
But the tweeter specifically said:
White middle aged women are a plague.

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TopicLMAO damn so many people mad at this Twitter post from ESPN
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 10:58:38 AM
#20
There needs to be some "affirmative action" for non-black people for sports. Only 1 of top 10 is non-black? Where are the white people, asians, hispanics, native americans, etc.?

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TopicIf you do a mercy killing, could you be sued / prosecuted / jailed?
IdiotMachine
05/13/20 10:54:25 AM
#1
Say you see someone getting mauled by a bear, thousands of ants are swarming over the person, etc. and there's no way that the person will survive this horrible and gruesome death. So you get your gun, and shoot them in the head as a mercy kill.

Could you be sued / prosecuted / jailed?

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TopicWhat's that internet meme song that's been going around recently?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 11:44:39 PM
#7
Ex-Kefiroth posted...
This?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLBBRuVDOo4
That's it. Thank you!

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TopicWhat's that internet meme song that's been going around recently?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 11:09:03 PM
#3
IdiotMachine posted...
bump
Fre

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TopicWhat's that internet meme song that's been going around recently?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 11:01:22 PM
#2
TopicWhat's that internet meme song that's been going around recently?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 10:50:54 PM
#1
It's usually mixed in with a gif of random people dancing on the beat. It's some electronic music.

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TopicHow can I make my WiFi faster?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 7:46:29 PM
#5
IdiotMachine posted...
Do I need a 802.11ax or WiFi 6 router?
Just found out that won't work because my wireless devices are not compatible...

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TopicHow can I make my WiFi faster?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 7:16:48 PM
#4
Do I need a 802.11ax or WiFi 6 router?

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TopicHow can I make my WiFi faster?
IdiotMachine
05/11/20 7:13:17 PM
#1
When I connect via ethernet, I get around 900-1100 mb/s download and upload. But via WiFi, I only get around 300-400 mb/s download and upload:
https://www.speedtest.net/result/a/6060026891

How would I get the full gigabit speed via WiFi?

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TopicMeanwhile, in China...
IdiotMachine
05/10/20 10:04:51 PM
#8
That's "coronavirus" theater; all smoke and mirrors.

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TopicRate this screenshot I took
IdiotMachine
05/10/20 9:07:49 PM
#8
I'm sorry, but I see nothing special about that screenshot.

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Topicpojr ranks breakfast cereals by tiers
IdiotMachine
05/10/20 2:30:28 PM
#27
Topicpojr ranks breakfast cereals by tiers
IdiotMachine
05/10/20 2:29:56 PM
#25
Topic$30k Roof Insurance Update.
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 5:57:44 PM
#12
monkmith posted...
its a complex roof with some fairly badly done roofing around some of the more complex features.
Oh? The inspector that came said the roofers that put the roof in did a fairly good job >_>

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Topic$30k Roof Insurance Update.
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 5:36:40 PM
#10
divot1338 posted...
Then it entirely depends on how much these quotes are for. Either you got a bad estimate or he did.

lordofmud posted...
You need to get another adjuster. Usually roofing companies have friendly adjusters who will submit that the whole roof is damaged by the wind/tree/whatever. Yes, you will pay the deductible but if you can get a whole tear off and reroof by a reputable company plus interior rehang of drywall and paint it is worth it.

Gotcha. I'll call another roofer on Monday and ask for their opinion.

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Topic$30k Roof Insurance Update.
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 5:30:03 PM
#6
divot1338 posted...
Otherwise though if this company is not so e fly by night operation it would probably be all right as long as youre comfortable waiting for the remainder of the money. Youd be footing anything past $6500.
It's Liberty Mutual.

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Topic$30k Roof Insurance Update.
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 5:05:03 PM
#2
Anyone have experience with insurance claims?

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Topic$30k Roof Insurance Update.
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 4:18:12 PM
#1
Adjuster said the roof inspector said there's no need to replace the entire roof. The roof is in good shape, and only a few shingles were missing. Based on that, the adjuster is offering a ~$6,500 payout (before the deductible of $2,000) to repair the missing shingles and interior ceiling damage.

The adjuster said that because I already filed a claim, it would go on my insurance record. He did say that if I were to refuse the payout, it would show up on my insurance record as "claim filed but no payout", which will not affect my rates. If I were to take the payout, my insurance will rise about $1,000 for the next three years.

Adjuster said he recommends I take the payout, then get some quotes for repair, and if the repair was higher than the ~$6,500 estimated, send him the difference and they will send a supplement check. If the repair was lower than the ~$6,500 estimated, he recommends I cancel the claim and void the check.

What does CE think I should do?

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TopicWhy doesn't the US govt just make more of that blue chemical? [Capt America]
IdiotMachine
05/08/20 9:43:06 AM
#1
So that we can have millions of Captain Americas?

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TopicVideo shows man shoving Texas park ranger into a lake.
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 11:12:45 PM
#2
That Hicks guy looks like a total douche.

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TopicWill the stimulus check disbursement letter become a rare collectible item?
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 7:41:48 PM
#2
Literally everyone in the nation will have one. How will it become a rare collectible item?

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TopicITT: Car buying tips.
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 7:18:51 PM
#7
Fossil posted...
Step 1: Don't buy from a dealership.

Axiom posted...
FTFY. You can get pretty good deals on program cars

/facepalm

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TopicITT: Car buying tips.
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 6:53:28 PM
#3
5) Getting Free Stuff from a Dealer
Once you finalize the sale price of the new/used car, you can ask for additional things that cost the dealership next to nothing. Such as software updates, navigation updates, rubber/all-weather mats, various items (dolls, cups, pens, etc. with their branding), tinting, etc.; they won't say "no", unless it's something very expensive (~$200+).

6) Financing from Dealers
When you're buying a car from a dealer, do not talk about anything else except the final price of the car. Do not talk about financing options, your downpayment, that you're going to pay in cash, that you have a trade-in, etc. Only after you finalize on the price do you bring these up. And when financing gets brought up, they'll talk mostly in monthly costs. Tell them you're more interested in the APR and the length of the loan. It is not uncommon for the pricing of the car to be tied to a financing of the car. Don't be scared by this. If the finance offer is unreasonable (above 5% APR), and they will not let you get the car for the price you negotiated it down to, and you still want to buy the car that day, sign up for that loan, then just refinance later. Otherwise, walk away, get your own financing, then come back, as they want to sell you a car.

7) Addons from Dealers
You thought you were done with the negotiating after the sales guy? Hah! Here comes your worst enemy - the finance manager. The finance manager will be there to sell you the loan (if the sales guy failed) and sell you all the bullshit addons (paint protection, interior carpet protection, maintenance plan, extended warranty, etc.). Do not let your guard down! All the addons are negotiable, and right at this moment, it's the worst place to even consider buying, because you have no information. Reject all options, and just buy the car. You can always buy them later.

If you choose to buy them later, call the dealers nationwide and ask to speak to a finance manager. Tell them you want whatever product that you want (e.g., extended warranty) "at cost + $100". They'll most likely say "no, we can't do that", and offer something like "at cost + $300"; ask them what that final price is, and rinse and repeat. These finance managers will lie to you. You'll find this out very quickly, because "at cost" will be different for each dealer you call (e.g., first dealer may say he's okay with "at cost +$300" and give a final sales price of $2000, but the second dealer said "at cost +$500 is the lowest I can go" and give a final sales price of $1900; this means the "at cost" is $1400 or less, not $1700 the first dealer eluded to). Once you repeat this with tens of dealers, and get the rock bottom pricing, you can buy it directly over the phone and they can apply the service product to your VIN directly. Or you can go to your local dealer, ask them to match it, and they'll do it for you there.


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TopicITT: Car buying tips.
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 11:17:23 AM
#2
5) Getting Free Stuff from a Dealer
Once you finalize the sale price of the new/used car, you can ask for additional things that cost the dealership next to nothing. Such as software updates, navigation updates, rubber/all-weather mats, various items (dolls, cups, pens, etc. with their branding), tinting, etc.; they won't say "no", unless it's something very expensive (~$200+).

6) Financing from Dealers
When you're buying a car from a dealer, do not talk about anything else except the final price of the car. Do not talk about financing options, your downpayment, that you're going to pay in cash, that you have a trade-in, etc. Only after you finalize on the price do you bring these up. And when financing gets brought up, they'll talk mostly in monthly costs. Tell them you're more interested in the APR and the length of the loan. It is not uncommon for the pricing of the car to be tied to a financing of the car. Don't be scared by this. If the finance offer is unreasonable (above 5% APR), and they will not let you get the car for the price you negotiated it down to, and you still want to buy the car that day, sign up for that loan, then just refinance later. Otherwise, walk away, get your own financing, then come back, as they want to sell you a car.

7) Addons from Dealers
You thought you were done with the negotiating after the sales guy? Hah! Here comes your worst enemy - the finance manager. The finance manager will be there to sell you the loan (if the sales guy failed) and sell you all the bullshit addons (paint protection, interior carpet protection, maintenance plan, extended warranty, etc.). Do not let your guard down! All the addons are negotiable, and right at this moment, it's the worst place to even consider buying, because you have no information. Reject all options, and just buy the car. You can always buy them later.

If you choose to buy them later, call the dealers nationwide and ask to speak to a finance manager. Tell them you want whatever product that you want (e.g., extended warranty) "at cost + $100". They'll most likely say "no, we can't do that", and offer something like "at cost + $300"; ask them what that final price is, and rinse and repeat. These finance managers will lie to you. You'll find this out very quickly, because "at cost" will be different for each dealer you call (e.g., first dealer may say he's okay with "at cost +$300" and give a final sales price of $2000, but the second dealer said "at cost +$500 is the lowest I can go" and give a final sales price of $1900; this means the "at cost" is $1400 or less, not $1700 the first dealer eluded to). Once you repeat this with tens of dealers, and get the rock bottom pricing, you can buy it directly over the phone and they can apply the service product to your VIN directly. Or you can go to your local dealer, ask them to match it, and they'll do it for you there.

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TopicITT: Car buying tips.
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 11:17:20 AM
#1
ITT, I give out tips on buying a car. Feel free to rebut, add, ask, etc.

1) Ask yourself - Do I need a new(er) car?
Without putting any emotions into it, you only need a new car if your car is suffering from structural damage (big accident, rust, etc.). Except for structural damage, it is almost always cheaper to repair and keep your old car than it is to buy a new(er) one for $20k+. Now that's out of the way, do you still want a new car? Here are some most likely benefits of a new car:
  • More Reliable -This means in the middle of your roadtrip or your daily driving, it is far less likely that it will crap out on you and you'd need a tow to a mechanic.
  • More Comfortable - Newer cars come with much more creature comforts than cars from a decade ago.
  • Safety - Newer cars have significant improvements to safety standards.
If you ultimately decided that you're going to buy a newer car, read on.

2) Buy new or lightly used?
Depending on the car you're shopping for, it may make sense to buy new. Pickup trucks, utility-focused cars, and cheaper sedans/crossovers, buying brand spanking new might be comparable to buying used, after negotiating and manufacturer rebates. However for luxury cars, sport cars, convertibles, and full size sedans/SUVs, buying a 1-3 year old lightly used (or certified preowned) will be significantly cheaper (we're talking 40% or more off).

For a rough ballpark, check out autotrader.com or cars.com, and look for the make and model of what you want, and the pricing advertised. This is just for the "ballpark", because prices can always be negotiated.

3) Tips for Buying New
Go to autotrader.com or cars.com, and search for the new make/model you want, and the location to "unlimited" from your zip code. Then e-mail blast away to the dealers. Ask them for the lowest possible price. Make sure to share with them your zip code (because manufacturer rebates are location based), and to share your eligibility for various rebates (you're a recent grad, you currently own their car (or their competitor's cars), you're a USAA/AAA/Costco member, etc...). When you get the price, make sure that the price you got is representative of what you will be actually paying: ensure that you qualify for all the rebates, and ask for the final out-the-door price with all dealer fees. You should expect a dealer fee of $200-$500; anymore than that, ask them to reduce it or reduce the final price of the vehicle. If you see something weird being added (in addition to dealer fees, taxes/registration/title fees), question it.

Now that you got the printout, use that to negotiate with all the other dealers. Once you get the lowest price that you're happy with, go to the dealer you'd actually want to buy it from (e.g., a local dealership), and ask them to match it. Never enter a dealership until you have the out-the-door invoice from that dealer. If any dealer, during this stage, tells you that you should come in to talk about the price (even after you say 'no thank you'), ignore them and move on to the next dealer.

If your local dealership will not match the price, or cannot come close to it, just buy it from that out-of-state dealer and ship it for ~$500. If the car, when delivered, is not what you expected (has damages or was falsely advertised), reject the delivery and you don't pay anything. Easy-peasy.

4) Tips for Buying Used
First and foremost, expect very little wiggle room for negotiating a used car. It's not like buying a new car where you can get thousands (or tens of thousands) off the advertised price. You may get $1,000 off if you're lucky.

Follow the steps in #3, but with similarly equipped used cars. Once you narrow it down to several cars, the inspection step begins. For most brands, if you're buying a certified pre-owned vehicle (CPO by the manufacturer, and not CPO by the dealer!), you can treat is as "new", and don't really have to get the car inspected. But if you're buying a non-CPO car, read on.

When you come to the lot, do a walkthrough. Check for any scratches, dings, etc. Then enter the car, and check for any warning messages. Open, pull, move, etc. everything. Don't be gentle; use force. When you actually drive it, once the engine is warmed up, floor it. Brake hard. Treat it terribly. You're trying to "break" the car. If, after all this, the car is fine, move on to the next step.

Tell the dealer/owner that you want to get the car inspected by a mechanic. If they seem apprehensive or deny, walk. Don't buy the car. If not, take the car to your mechanic, pay him a diagnostic fee (they'll usually charge anywhere from $20-$200 for this), and do a full check of the car. If there's nothing wrong with it, good! If something's wrong with it, it's up to you whether or not to still go with the car. You could always use this as additional ammo to further negotiate the price down.

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TopicWhy would you work for a company...
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 10:40:34 AM
#8
I have never heard of anyone that I personally know that has ever had their employer not pay them for the pay they deserve.

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TopicWhy would you work for a company...
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 10:13:34 AM
#2
Austin_Era_II posted...
Come pay day they don't have funds to pay you
What kind of shitty company do you work for?

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 8:51:59 AM
#28
Oh and if you want to buy extended warranty, make sure it's offered by the manufacturer, and you're not buying a dealer extended warranty. Also don't feel pressured to buy an extended warranty from the dealer that you're buying the car from; you can buy this from any dealer across the nation after you bought the car (there are some time and mileage caveats, but if you do this within a month of purchase, you should be fine), so if you want to buy an extended warranty, call around nationwide and get the best price.

You'll usually start this negotiation by calling a dealership, asking for a finance manager, than telling him/her "I want 8 year extended warranty with 85,000 miles and no deductible for a <car> with VIN <ID> for an at cost plus $200". They'll say no, and they'll say best they can do is "at cost plus $500" or whatnot. Then ask them what that final price is, and they'll say "$2,500". You then call another dealer, and repeat... but only this time, they might say "okay we'll do at cost plus $200, and the final price is $2,000"; so you know the first dealer completely lied to you, and the "at cost" might be $1,800. You repeat over and over with different dealers to find the true "at cost" value, and make your purchase.

For the VW, I bought a 10 year / 100,000 mile / $0 deductible extended warranty for "at cost + $50", which ended up being $1,850. For the RAM, I bought an 8 year / 85,000 mile / $100 deductible extended warranty for "at cost + $100", which ended up being $1,950.

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 8:44:09 AM
#26
As an example, I bought a brand new 2019 Volkswagen eGolf in 2019, with an MSRP of $34k, for $14k (after $9k in tax credits), which they would only offer if I signed up with VW financing of 5.90% APR. So after I bought the car and signed a loan with VW, I re-financed it in less than a month with PenFed for 2.49% APR.

Another example: I bought a brand new 2019 RAM 1500 truck a couple weeks ago, with an MSRP of $52k for $28k, which (again) they would only offer if I signed up with RAM financing of 5.50% APR. You betcha I already started the refinancing of this car with PenFed for 2.19% APR.

These days, dealers will offer a fantastic price if you sign up with financing, because they get incentives from both the bank they use and the manufacturer (i.e., don't go in to the dealership, or tell your sales guy that you are providing your own financing or that you're paying in cash; leave this fact last, with the finance manager, after you're done negotiating the final price; if they keep pushing for "well how much monthly would you like to pay" or other bullshit, tell them you want to deal with final prices; if they don't respect this, just move on to another dealer). They'll ask that you keep the loan for 90 days, so that they can get their bonus; but fuck 'em and just refinance ASAP.

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 8:37:07 AM
#25
Veggeta X posted...
Okay then how do you properly buy a car? Directly from another person?
Once you have good credit, you get the loan from a bank or a credit union. Then you buy the car from whomever you'd like. You'd only get a car loan directly from the dealer if they offer 0% or any % under the bank/credit union.

But be careful that usually the 0% financing doesn't work with "bonus cash", so it might be cheaper overall to get a 2.99% loan from a credit union and get cash incentives to buy a car. Or, be careful when they say the price is only with financing (this could be true or a lie); if they say that the price is only good with financing, you could always sign up with their 7% loan, then re-finance immediately after with your own bank/credit union.

Veggeta X posted...
I tried to get pre-approved for a loan and I got denied. Each bank and credit union told me I didn't have enough action in financing to get approved.

I get it, this was your first major credit use; so you had no options. But now that you have good credit, see above.

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/07/20 7:50:27 AM
#21
Veggeta X posted...
So go to a pay here buy here car lot?
No that's even worse. Car dealers will give anyone a loan because the car itself is a collateral and it's easy to repo a car. You can't pay for the car with like 7%-20% interest rate? Well they'll take it back and sell the car again.

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/06/20 10:29:23 PM
#14
Veggeta X posted...
No I believe him because no banks approved me prior and like a month after I already got my Corolla they told me to come back and sign a paper saying I acknowledged that the dealership took 1k off my payment because the bank that approved me didn't think I was capable of paying it off.
Car dealers will let literally anyone get a loan.

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TopicMy Corolla is about to hit 100k miles and I still got 4k left to pay off
IdiotMachine
05/06/20 10:25:01 PM
#11
Veggeta X posted...
I went to the dealership and the guy who sold me the Corolla said he had to go far and wide to get me approved.
No he didn't. He's just saying that to pretend to be on your side and your buddy.

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Topictwitch girl refuses to kiss her mod
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 11:46:25 PM
#38
HagenEx posted...
They filter twitch chat.

That's literally it. Basically 99% of them are thirsty nerds that spend all day on twitch.
Oh.

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Topiccan anything be done if you have camera footage of your neighbor
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 2:15:46 PM
#7
If you want to make this into a big deal, you can call your local police and tell them that your neighbor is breaking federal law (specifically the Mercury-Containing and Rechargeable Battery Management Act, and not following the Standards for Universal Waste 40 CFR Part 273).

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TopicFirst class magneto beach scene is best moment in cinema history
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 1:52:58 PM
#2
It's scripted.

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TopicHow long is the longest exam you've ever taken?
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 12:19:08 PM
#20
~9 hours. PE exam, which was two 4 hour sessions, with lunch in-between.

PickleRick2017 posted...
Fundamentals of engineering exam took 8 hours.

FE exam is less than 6 hours long, IIRC.

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TopicInsurance "adjuster" came to check out the roof [update on $30k roof].
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 12:17:29 PM
#3
Tired-Insomniac posted...
That still sounds really high. Guess it depends on where you live though
It's a big roof; around 4500 sqft. The agent of the insurance adjuster also said that there's some very difficult spots on the roof, as the roof angles don't meet flush (no idea what that means and why it's more difficult).

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TopicInsurance "adjuster" came to check out the roof [update on $30k roof].
IdiotMachine
05/05/20 12:10:14 PM
#1
Background:
Leak was evident in my ceiling. I called two roofers, and both roofers recommended a complete replacement, and gave a quote for ~$30k to replace the entire roof. One of them temporarily patched the area with caulking. Due to the high cost, I filed a claim with my insurance company.

Pictures are available here: https://imgur.com/a/vIf73H8

An agent for the adjuster came to check out the roof and take pictures. I asked him for his opinion, and after some coercing (he kept saying he cannot speak his opinion), he revealed to me that there was no evidence of hail damage, but there was definitely evidence of wind damage. He also noted that my fence was leaning heavily and took pictures of it, saying that that should also be included in the claim. He believes the insurance company will pay out to replace parts of the roof and replace the fence, but will not pay out for the entire roof.

He said he was a former roofing contractor for the past 27 years (and that his father was also a roofing contractor as well), so I asked him for a rough quote to replace the roof; he said if he were to do it, he would charge around $20k-25k. I told him about the quotes I got, and he said its understandable that they're higher than normal because of significant increase in demand (apparently there's a lot of roof replacement/repair happening in my area now because of a recent storm).

Bleh... Now time to wait a few days for the adjuster.

TL;DR - An agent for the insurance adjuster came to inspect the roof. He concluded that there was no hail damage, there was wind damage, and his opinion is that insurance should pay out to replace parts of the roof, but not the entire roof. The quotes I got to replace the entire roof for around $30k is "reasonable".

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TopicI love my truck.
IdiotMachine
05/03/20 10:19:37 PM
#6
If you need a car, go buy a truck.

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